Saturday, January 12, 2008

My grandmother Mary Becker died on Novemeber 30, 2007. I was deeply saddened at being unable to be with my family during that time, and I wrote this piece to be read at her wake service. Since, many family members have asked me for copies of ‘’my letter’’ and so I thought I would post it here.

In many ways, Grandma’s death has influenced my time in Mozambique for the last couple months too – I often draw comparisons between our simple lifestyle here and that of Grandma’s early life. I’ve told the sisters and my friends many family stories that otherwise would not have been recounted. I feel much more connected to my family; Aunt Paula has been scanning and sending me old photographs unearthed for use at Grandma’s wake service. I have an old pill bottle on my desk with Grandma’s obituary and a flower from her funeral that my dad sent from the U.S. with Matt at Christmas.

A few weeks ago, on my 23rd birthday, I went out for a morning run. As I ran along the quiet National Highway 1, I noticed a small yellow butterfly flitting along beside me. Intrigued by the way it wove in and out of the plants, but continued to follow my path, I began to imagine that perhaps this was a little ‘’Happy Birthday’’ sign that Grandma had sent me – looking down at me , as a friend wrote after Grandma’s death, through her new direct window on Mozambique.

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What can I say about Grandma? My Grandma whose name I proudly carry. As I sit alone at my desk in a hot, humid room 10,000 miles from the only place I want to be right now, it’s hard for me even to put into words how I would characterize her – what I would say if I were sitting among you with the chance to stand up and say my piece.

I guess what I most want to say is: Grandma was very special to me. When I think about my own life, she is one of a few people who have influenced me more than anyone else. Even as a small child, I knew there was just something special about her. Once, when I was about five years old, I heard someone mention that Grandma was getting old, and she had done something to remind them that she might not be around forever. It so upset me that I ran into my room and shut myself into my closet. I sat down in front of the cardboard shoe organizer inside and wrote on it in big, child-letters with black permanent marker, “I love Grandma Mary” – my little prayer to God that she would be around to take care of me forever.

My best memories of Grandma are from 10 or more years ago; those days are becoming fuzzy now in my mind. As a small child, I spent every day at Grandma Mary’s house while my parents worked. I loved Grandma’s house for its peacefulness. The house started each day dark and cool, warming as sunlight crept in slowly through the dining room window, inching across the buffet table to bathe her small potted violets in a warm fuzzy radiation by late afternoon. Each day, Grandma made me honey toast or a bowl of cheerios for breakfast after my dad dropped me off. Then, she would begin making bread or noodles or some type of dish for dinner, and commence the household chores for the day. I would sit at the kitchen table and watch, asking lots of questions. Why did the bread dough get so huge when it sat in the special cupboard for an hour? Why did the sheets and pants and shirts get hung to dry on the outside clothes lines, and the underwear get hung on the clotheslines in the basement? Why did Grandma scrub the floor on her hands and knees when Mom and all my aunts used mops?

I remember her sitting me at the kitchen counter with a bowl of chili that I proceeded to pick all of the beans out of. I remember “helping” her pick rhubarb and running in among the billowy sheets as she hung the wash out to dry. I remember standing atop “the stool” with my arms straight out to get measured for each year’s Christmas-present pajamas. I remember Michael chasing me around the house until Grandma scolded us, and Hans and I building card-house villages and running to get Grandma to look. I remember the great meals – Turkey and mashed potatoes (she always called me out to the kitchen to “lick the beater”), the wilted lettuce with bacon, homemade macaroni and cheese on Fridays. I even loved the peanut butter and honey sandwiches she let me have for snack (when I promised not to tell my father).

Most days, we had several visitors at the “Do Drop Inn:” Grandma’s lively sisters who talked so fast I didn’t have time for questions; Aunt Jean who came once a week on her lunch hour to perm Grandma’s hair; Grandma’s quiet sister, Ceil, who always seemed a little bit sad. No one ever left Grandma’s house without a loaf of bread in hand. I don’t think I even saw a loaf of store-bought bread in my own house until I was 12 years old.

Some days I went with Grandma to church in the morning. She usually picked up a few friends who couldn’t drive, and dropped them off the way home. Sometimes, we would do other errands – often taking a casserole or loaf of bread to someone whose husband was sick, or whose mother had died.

Grandma was always busy, but we also had a lot of fun. She was constantly working – I learned something of that work ethic during those days for which I will be eternally grateful. But, she always stopped working to watch our afternoon shows. Dennis the Menance, I Love Lucy, or, as my mom reminded me yesterday, Highway to Heaven. Grandma was very taken with Highway to Heaven. I remember her commenting sadly every day about how Michael Landon – the man who played an angel interceding in the lives of wayward humans – had recently died of cancer. How intriguing to me as a little kid that the angel in the show had actually died in real life. My mother tells me that she used to come in and find Grandma and I both crying at the end of a particularly touching episode.

Grandma had so many stories that she told me, usually as I sat at the kitchen table watching her bake bread. She would knead the dough 20 times or more sprinkling the flour on the table, punching the dough in, the wrinkled skin on her hands covered in crusted dough, and what muscle was left in her arms rippling with each punch. Grandma told me she started baking bread when she was nine years old. She told again and again the story of “Matchew” and his uneaten rutabagas spit into the snow; she told stories of working at the Adams company, of growing up on the farm, of her siblings and parents and grandparents long since dead – I loved to listen. I maybe heard more of her stories than anyone else – who else had that much time to sit around and listen? I wish now that I could remember them all. I tried to write some of them last spring in a small biography of her that most of you have read, but many of the stories have been lost from my child-mind with the passage of time.

Perhaps more than anything else, I think I will always remember Grandma’s eyes – pale, blue eyes the color of sky that could bore into your soul. She talked a lot, told a lot of stories, but she never had to pass many verbal judgments. Those eyes could overflow with love – sometimes literally in her small, repressed flow of tears – or they could flash with anger, with a jerk of the head, if someone said something that offended her family or someone she loved. Even in these last years when her mind mixed up what she wanted to say to us, her eyes always conveyed just how much love she had for us – her beloved children, grandchildren, family members.

So, I’m far away from you all. I wish with all my heart that I could be there right now to cry together, to laugh together, to retell the stories that we’ve heard a hundred times, and to remind each other of forgotten moments. Here, in the midst of a bunch of little girls who’ve already lost their parents, I am so thankful to have not only had my own parents, but to have grown up in the care of Grandma Mary, as well. I know that Grandma is watching over me now; I know she would be happy with the work I’m doing – it is perhaps her early influence that first put me on the path that ended me up here working with the poor. I hope that you all celebrate her wonderful life today – and I hope we can continue to celebrate it and to share these stories when I return.

Rest in Peace Grandma – I love you.

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Christmas Day



“White Christmas” this year meant the white of foamy ocean waves instead of snow. Representing five countries (Portugal, Italy, Congo, United States, and of course Mozambique), this was the multi-cultural group that I celebrated Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with this year.

We celebrated Christmas Eve with the vigil mass in which the youth of our parish put on a play of the Christmas Story in the local language –Tchopi. After mass, the sisters, priests, other volunteers, two Italian visitors, two Mozambican visitors, and I had an international dinner of Italian “Risotti,” Portuguese “Bacalhau” and American cookies! For Christmas Day, we all went to mass in the morning and then the same group went out to Závora beach where we made a fire to grill chicken and beef and swam in the ocean for the day. Above, we all went up to the lighthouse overlooking the beautiful beach for one big group shot.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!

Friday, December 21, 2007

Today, I had a great experience driving home from Bilene, a small lake-beach in Southern Mozambique where the sisters have an old dormitory that serves as “vacation getaway” for the various houses of orphans throughout the country.

I was sitting in the front of the sister’s truck, smushed in between two Portuguese volunteers who had come down in the car to pick us up, with little Alice on my lap. We were going to leave Alice (pronounced uh-lee-see) in the city of Xai Xai on our way back to Inharrime where she would meet an aunt to visit for Christmas.

Alice held tight to my hands clasped around her waist – it was her first time every riding in the front seat of a car. After a few miles, the other volunteers and I heard a squeaky little voice start singing an old Portuguese Christmas carol that we had all sang at our Christmas party the week before. As Alice moved from this into The Itsy Bitsy Spider, the other volunteers and I looked at each other and smiled.

When Alice and the other little girls in the back seat started to doze, we turned on the radio. The first song that came on was that old American 80’s hit that goes something like:

Anything you want, you got it.
Anything you need, you got it.
Anything at all! You got it. Ooooh…

I smiled to myself and Pedro and I looked at each other and at almost the same time said, “This could be about Alice.” Our little girls here are so precious, and in such precarious life-situations – they simply steal our hearts and we’d do anything for them.

As the little girl dozed off in my arms and the palm trees whizzed by outside the windows or the truck, I hummed to myself… “Anything at all!” Life is good.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Merry Christmas from the Laura Vicuna Center!



We had our Christmas party a bit early because all of the little girls go to visit family members for the real holiday. The party was an absolute delight – the group of Portuguese doctors, the sisters, and I all decorated our big cafeteria for Christmas, and even made a makeshift Christmas tree out of a wooden post and four huge palm tree leaves. We all donned our best clothing – earrings, a touch of perfume, the seldom worn hair barrets.


Sister Lucília prepared buttered shrimp, delicious soup, French fries and cake for everyone. I made good ol’ fashioned American Christmas cookies complete with red and green frosting (that three of my girls helped me decorate.) After dinner, we all got simple presents, and then sang and danced to Christmas songs.


A former volunteer sent Christmas stockings and presents for all the girls. The contents: a picture of them in a frame with their name on it, a Christmas pencil and eraser, two or three little bags of candies, and two new pairs of underwear! They were all ridiculously excited to get new underwear.

Yolanda was so excited when she pulled out the picture of herself – she planted a big sloppy kiss right on her own face!


Julia, amazed and shocked at her good fortune to have received her very own stocking, kept running out to dance and sing with everyone after the present-opening, only to return every couple minutes to check and make sure her gifts were still there. When I asked her why she kept coming back, she just grinned and said, “This is the best Christmas present I’ve ever had!”


I, along with all the beautiful little ones, appreciated a very simple Christmas party this year – but what joy to see the light in a little girl’s eyes over a new pair of pink underwear! I hope you and your families all can share such joy, too, this Christmas season!



Thursday, December 13, 2007

A few days ago, eight young Portuguese doctors arrived here at Laura Vicuña to volunteer for three weeks providing basic medical consults for all our girls and all of the children in our adopt-a-child program.

Since I’m on school break, I’ve gotten to spend a few days helping them out and it’s been really fun for me to observe some medicine again and see what they can do here.

The first day, a little girl who is our closest neighbor here was brought in by her slightly older sister with terribly burned feet. Only 2 or 3 years years old, she had been toddling around outside when she stuck her feet in her mothers cooking fire. One of the doctors asked me to help him hold her down, and watch how he bandaged her feet so that I could do it for her if she came back for new bandages after the doctors go back to Portugal. I was amazed at the little girl’s bravery! She did not cry at all until the very end as the doctor cut all the skin around her burn and put on cream and wrapped up the horrible-looking feet.

Another day, I asked the doctors if they would be willing to take a look at one of my students who has had chest pains for several years. One doctor here had told him it was asthma, and another a heart murmur, but his family doesn’t have the money he would need to buy a nebuilizer for asthma or to have a surgery for a heart murmur. My student, Lolo, arrived with his father, and they both were very nervous to see the doctors. But after a thorough examination – the doctors found nothing wrong! They asked him some other questions about stress in his life and were able to reasonable assume that his chest pain stems from stress and nervousness! As Lolo walked out of the makeshift doctor’s office, he looked so relieved. Neither of the two conditions he worried he might have existed, and the docs had given him some pills (in reality vitamins, hoping for a placebo effect) for him to take when he feels the pain to calm him down. Lolo was so grateful – it made the doctors’ whole trip worthwhile for me.

On another day, I followed one of the doctors around and just observed and helped with little things as she gave physicals. One of her basic questions to all the kids was, “Do you have any problems with your eyes or vision?” Usually the answer was no, but with one girl she answered yes and told us that she has a hard time seeing distances. She said all the teacher’s writing at school just looks like big white blobs on the blackboard. We felt terrible – there’s nothing we can do for her, and there’s no opthamalogist for her to go to anywhere except the capital city, and that she wouldn’t be able to afford. Mostly out of curiosity, I took off my own glasses and tried them on her face. I asked her what it looked like and her response was just a giggle, “Well, the world looks clearer.”

I don’t really think too much about medicine here. I know that when I go home, I’ll be going to medical school, but here I’m a teacher, a big sister, lots of things, but not in any way related to health. These days have been really good for me. It’s been nice to be reminded of what I want to do – to see how much good these people could do in a short time, and to remember that indeed this is the type of work I want to do, too, someday. How frustrating to be unable to help some people – to not know how to test vision and measure for glasses – and yet how wonderful to let another young man know he’s healthy and just needs to relax, or to keep a little girl from having scarred, deformed feet. I was very lucky to have this time to see and observe these things and it gave me a renewed sense of direction on what I will do when my time in Mozambique is over.

Friday, November 23, 2007

Thanksgiving

Mozambicans do not celebrate our American holiday “Thanksgiving,” but nonetheless, I brought our tradition here yesterday.

On Wednesday, I walked into town to the market in search of a pumpkin or sweet potatoes. The market in Inharrime is a haphazardly built conglomeration of straw tables and benches positioned behind a series of stores on the main highway that runs through the village. The result is a dark, maze-like structure filled with women selling the currently in season vegetables. I asked high and low for a pumpkin and explained to many of the market-women about the holiday in my county where we always make pumpkin pie. Each one tried to direct me to someone “down at the end of the line” who would have one last pumpkin, but to no avail – pumpkin season ended last week. By the time I came back through the market at the end – everyone was curious if I had found my much desired “abóbora.”

In the end, I made a banana-apple crisp instead of pumpkin pie, and, with the help of my Amercian-volunteer friend Stephanie, a feast of roast chicken, carrots, and mashed potatoes. The sisters and another Mozambican teacher that ate with us were impressed with their small taste of American culture.

And, in this faraway place, we transplanted Americans even took some time to reflect on what we’re thankful for this year. For me: The continued support of my family and friends from home topped the list. Thanks to everyone for your care even when I am far away. I miss you all and hope that your Thanksgivings were happy as well.

Saturday, November 17, 2007

End of School ´´Festa``

Today was one of the best days I’ve had in Mozambique. The kids in the above picture spent the past three weeks preparing a small play as part of the “Theatre Group” during the mandatory three weeks of summer activities that go on at my school after the end of classes for the year.

At the end of the three weeks, on the day that final grades are posted, the school hosted a small festival and all the different groups of activities (basket-making, singing, dancing, theatre, sewing) presented their activities for their parents, teachers, and fellow students. My students from the theatre group, as well as the little group of boys who call themselves “Real Heat” and sing rap music about social change, presented. The audience reacted with laughs and cheers for the play, and clapped along to the music. I was very proud of my students, and happy to have seen a fruitful product of some time well spent with these kids.